atelier culinaire

Some call this the most depressing dish in Europe. Others say it is the most fashionably underrated of plats. Whichever camp, there is no escaping that l’Oeufs durs Mayonnaise is an unquestionable bistro classic. So simple it doesn’t need a recipe and yet as emblematic as to have an organization dedicated to it’s safeguarding (ASOM, l’Association pour la Sauvegarde de l’Oeuf Mayonnaise), the dish is French bistro fare when best. Nothing flashy to hide behind, no surprising spices or contrasting flavours, just an honest celebration of the main ingredient. Which in this case is – Egg and egg. 

In the chartre outlined by ASOM, I am informed that the eggs used should be calibre gros, so size L (between 63-73 g), and hard-boiled to the point that the yolk rests fondant, and the white supple. The mayonnaise must be fait maison, thick yet liquid, capable of dressing and covering the entire egg, think custard-texture. The l’œuf mayonnaise can be associated with crudités or cooked greens (season dictates). As plating goes, the look must be appetizing, the amount generous (3 halves with garnish is suggested) and the temperature of plate/ingredients must be neither too cold (for taste) nor too warm (considering the fragile nature of the mayonnaise). Baguette is indispensable to mop up the excess sauce.

I am not sure ASOM would approve of my oeuf mayonnaise. My sauce is stiffer than custard in texture, because I like it that way, finding a 1 yolk to 1 dl oil mayo too rich and liquid. I have no idea how to cook the perfect hard boiled egg, leaving it to chance, given that our eggs come from the farm next door in all shapes and sizes. Last I can rarely resist serving it with something extra, like criss-crossed anchovies on top or sardines on the side, which, admittedly, somehow transforms the dish. Thus, I feel obliged to add that some green leaves really are enough, like fresh baby spinach, some beautifully elegant salade de mâche or simply parsley. Whichever way you plate up, or next time you have the luck of having it sur place, I just have two recommendations. Have it with a cold beer, a demi, it is the most perfect pairing – and home or away – enjoy preferably en terrasse.