atelier culinaire

I remember first time I had salade de lentilles. It was in Paris and the restaurant was just off Republique, on the canal side. It was November and Nuit Blanche, and I saw “No man is an Island” by Jesper Just and “Purple Rain” at Hotel de Ville. The beginning of this night was an entree, a warm (tiede) salad of sweet, peppery and earthy lentille du puy dressed in, if I remember correctly, a shallot vinaigrette. No more no less, just a dish designed to do nothing but bring out the best of the French AOP cupboard staple. 

Since I have half heartedly attempted recreation, sometimes leaving years in between giving a go, partly because it was hard getting my hands on the right lentils – La Verte du Puy. The best substitute was the beluga, being easier to source in danish supermarkets at the time, but then again it just was not the same. But honestly, I left longer and longer between attempts, because none ever lived up to memory. 

Now, having moved to France, sourcing the right lentils is no longer the challenge. Cooking them right though has rested one. I’ve tried different things, a broth, a clove studded onion, a bouquet garni, giving good flavour, but still lacking in the finished result. It did not help that my belle-mére buys canned, arguing that the lentils are simply too hard to get right texture wise, so how to guard the right bite. In conversation with a neighbor, I believe I have found my way. Vinegar and sugar and cooking pilaf style. This is how she cooks hers and how I cooked mine last night:  

Bring lentils, a clove studded onion and bayleaf, to the boil (water should cover by 2 cm) and add a teaspoon of vinegar and a cube of sugar. Reduce the heat, and let simmer for 25-30 min, till liquid has absorbed. You discard the onion and bayleaf, and pour a shallot vinaigrette over the lentils. Toss to coat and season.

In the name of sustenance and aesthetics, I like to serve the salad with something on the side, and in general I like it to be white. A poached egg or a few slices of goat cheese, beauty being in the contrast. My neighbor serves it with sausage and recommends a saucisse de Morteau. Your call.